Vietti's mighty 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is extremely polished and sharp, showing the smallest details with microscope-like precision in this release of 3,512 bottles. Tart cherry fruit segues to spice, tarry smoke, licorice and a chiseled sense of minerality that adds ample volume and considerable focus. The wine displays alternating moments of dryness, with layers of cherry sweetness, and all this movement adds to the fluid, ever-changing nature of the bouquet. Vintage after vintage, this wine continues to push the boundaries for Barolo made in Castiglione Falletto.

By Monica Larner June 2021