The 2022 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs opens with a suspicion of green apple, nothing more. Tanginess also defines the palate, but here, it is of a green-yellow citrus spectrum, enveloping salty, rocky, majestic solidity. That salty tang on the finish has almost magnetic power, drawing you into stony depth. Sheer power from this hot, dry site. (Bone-dry)

By Anne Krebiehl MW September 2023