The 2021 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Grosses Gewächs is from the lieu-dit Herrenberg and an unnamed parcel next to the Zickelberg of the Bockstein. The 40-50-year-old vines lie not in the south-facing center, one parcel facing east, the other west. The nose has notions of white fruit: white fresh currant, white peach flesh with riper overtones of juicy yellow melon. A serene and bright vein of lemon pervades the entire wine with electric freshness. This has both concentration and elegance, a kind of citric urgency and energy driving this forward with immense juiciness. The finish is the purest lemon with stony length. Very vertical. Totally zesty. The step-up from the village wine is immense. Wow. 8.4g/L of residual sweetness and 9.2g/L of acidity. (Dry)

By Anne Krebiehl MW April 2023