Opaque purple-black in color, the 2020 Trotanoy needs considerable coaxing and swirling before it erupts from the glass with powerful notes of prunes, chocolate-covered cherries, mulberries and hoisin, plus nuances of candied violets, star anise and clove oil, with a touch of smoked meats. The big, concentrated, full-bodied palate explodes with decadent black fruit preserves and exotic spices, supported by wonderfully velvety tannins and bags of freshness, finishing with epic length and, finally, lots of earth and mineral layers. A truly impressive titan of a Pomerol, this is going to need a good 6-8 years in bottle, then should go on wowing for 40 years or more.

By Lisa Perrotti-Brown May 2021