This latest---indeed, greatest--in Michael Moosbrugger’s memorable ongoing series of explorations into how and why his mid-20th century predecessors and their forebears “raised” wine, was to have been bottled this summer for autumn release. But Moosbrugger was away when I returned to Austria in September and I was unable to obtain a bottle, so for now I present my May 2015 notes from cask. Faintly yeasty and alkaline notes in the nose accompany intimations of the rich, earthy, umami-laden foundation of subtly caramelized root vegetables that the palate delivers, studded with peppercorns and drizzled with fragrant floral honey. Satiny in texture, searchingly expansive, yet buoyant and preserving a vibrant core of sheer refreshment, this enters a finishing realm of oyster liquor-like salinity, oceanic mineral and seaweedy depth, that will milk your salivary glands while leaving your mouth agape. (Any embarrassment will be well worth it.)

By David Schildknecht May 2015