The 2022 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs is made from various parcels at different altitudes of this stony volcanic site. The yeasty funk soon dissipates and gives notions of pure, crunchy apple with fern, crushed citrus leaf and a slight smokiness. Being so close to the river means that this vineyard does not forgive any slack, Tim Fröhlich notes. There is moisture in the mornings, and the high humidity means a botrytis risk, not something he wants in his dry wines. He watches it like a hawk. The palate is salty right away and tingles with lemon and bright freshness, yet there are stony elements, absolute saltiness and concentration that somehow circles back to citrus, homing in on grapefruit with all its spice. There's a lovely salty echo. (Bone-dry)

By Anne Krebiehl MW July 2023