The maiden 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain 1er Cru comes from an exchange of must. Slightly chalky on the nose and a little austere coming after the three Meursaults, this takes time to get accustomed to. The palate is fresh on the entry with light chamomile notes and fine acidity, though it doesn't quite kick on toward the finish like Pernot's other six Puligny cuvées.

By Neal Martin November 2024