The 2022 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is the most reticent on the nose, painfully shy despite coaxing from its shell. Touches of cold stone and a light estuarine tang. The medium-bodied palate has quite fine tannins, very pure and tensile, sporting dark cherries mixed with Indian spices and pain d'epices. There’s fine length, though the Clos de la Roche has a notch more flair.

By Neal Martin November 2023