The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is, along with Les Cras, one of the more overtly ripe wines in the range this year, delivering notions of red berries, spiced plums, petals and sweet soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy palate that's framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a discreetly sun-kissed finish. Roumier was always hesitant to include whole bunches in this cuvée, the most inherently structured of the range, but he has dared to do so since 2018 and likes the results.

By William Kelley January 2024