The 2023 Santenay Clos des Gravières Vieilles Vignes comes from vines that undergo tressage and saw 100% whole bunch this year (incidentally, there will be an Haut-Densitée cuvée of this at some point in the future when the younger vines mature). This was my preferred nose amongst the four reds that Olivier Lamy poured: the best delineation and purity, perfumed raspberry and wild strawberry, white flowers and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, cranberry and strawberry to the fore, fine acidity with quite a structured though not grippy finish. I would afford this a couple of years in bottle.

By Neal Martin January 2026