The Giacomo Conterno 2018 Barolo Francia has opened beautifully since I last tasted this wine at the winery two years ago. It was closed back then (no surprise since I tasted it as an unfinished sample), but with the distance of time, the wine has blossomed to show blackcurrant, cassis, aniseed, blue flower and pencil shaving. The Francia is known for its magical combination of power and nuance, both delivered with seamless intensity. This vintage offers a savory component with hints of toasted spice or spent ember. The tannins are fine and polished.

By Monica Larner April 2024