The 2004 Comtes de Champagne is at a glorious peak of early maturity where the first notes of aromatic and flavor development have arrived, and yet the wine remains fresh. Apricot, baked apple tart, pastry and touch of reduction all run through this super-classic Comtes de Champagne. Now showing the gentlest hint of patina, the 2004 is magnificent. The delicately saline finish is a thing of beauty. At the outset, many Chefs de Cave believed the 2004s would not age, since at the time, yields were the highest ever in Champagne. Time has proved otherwise for the top wines. This is a great bottle of the 2004, the best I have had yet.

By Antonio Galloni March 2024